The Pizza Locust Arrives!

So, what’s the surprise for Pizza Week 2007? My new website, The Pizza Locust (pizzalocust.com).

I’ve collected the archives from all the past Lone Locust pizza reviews and placed them over at this new site, which will be all pizza, all the time. What more could you want except perhaps a membership to Weight Watchers?

If you want to know more about it, check out the introductory post.

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La Grande Orange Pizzeria – Review

La Grande Orange

Well over a year ago, I became aware of La Grande Orange, an unlikely-named pizzeria in one of those neighborhoods where the people have too damn much money.

It happens to be within a short distance from my office and, you’d think, I would have managed to get down there at lunchtime to review them.

You’d think that.

Sadly, they don’t serve pizza until 4:00PM, long after I’ve gone home for the day.

It’s a curious place that combines a grocery, a coffee shop, a pizzeria, a gelato shop and apparently a bakery. (I was honestly unclear if the bakery is affiliated or not, but they seemed to have some crossover.) Although they aren’t open for serving pizza until 4, even at lunchtime, their small parking lot is always full. Not just full with ordinary cars, either. The combined value of the vehicles frequently tops a cool million dollars. It’s an upscale place with a capital “FRU” and another “FRU” for good measure. I wasn’t too surprised to learn today that they have valet parking in the back.

The review pizza was approximately 14“, the only size they have. As I was sharing it with my wife, we departed somewhat from a standard review pepperoni pizza. We choose the ”gladiator“, described as ”Schreiner’s sausage & pepperoni, premium cheese blend & house made red sauce.“

A brief aside about Schreiner’s Fine Sausage: Schreiner’s has been a small, family-owned business making handmade sausages in Phoenix since 1955. Coincidentally, they just happen to be next door to my previous place of employment, and I’ve purchased their sausages several times. Good stuff, all around.

As is custom, when I share a pizza, I don’t discuss with them until after I’ve formulated my opinion.

This pizza gave a whole new meaning to the word, ”subtle.“

My first piece was, I’d swear, flavorless, or near enough that I was immediately disappointed. La Grande Orange has had some strong reviews and several first hand recommendations to me, so I was expecting something immediately inspiring. The only thing I really tasted on the first piece was the sausage, which was a nice Italian sausage with a slightly unique flavor I couldn’t quite place.

I dissected the second piece. I tried a solitary piece of sausage, which was consistent the same as on the first piece. I tried the pepperoni, which comes in large slices. It was a good, solid pepperoni – not too bland, not too strong, but it was overshadowed by the sausage. The sauce tasted very fresh and had a strong tomato flavor. There was very little sugar used in the making of this sauce. The cheese, still very hot, had no flavor. Most disappointing was the crust. Thin and hand spun, it was the perfect thickness and texture, but without much flavor. It was also undercooked in the center.

I take a lot of the blame for the undercooked crust. To avoid what I anticipated to be an insane Friday-night rush, we arrived precisely at 4:00PM. We received the first pizza of the day and the pizzeria ovens are almost never up to temperature when they start cooking. I knew that going in and I’m not going to count that as a strike against them. Well, only a slight strike, they could turn the ovens on earlier.

Sounds like I didn’t enjoy the pizza, doesn’t it?

The funny thing is, the pizza got better the more I ate. The flavor of the sauce became more pronounced and the cheese took on more mozzarella flavor along with a slightly bitter taste that is the telltale sign of a cheese blend. The crust stayed the same though. By the end it wasn’t bad, but it still wasn’t a ”wow“ pizza.

I have two theories about why the pizza seemed to change flavor. The first is that, as the pizza, and particularly the cheese, cooled the flavors became more pronounced. I favor this theory because certain cheeses, particularly mozzarellas taste different when hot or cold. Usually mozzarella gains flavor when it is hot, but I’ve tasted other cheeses that were stronger when cold. It’s possible their cheese blend contained something that was stronger when cooled.

The second theory is that the pizza was just uneven; that the cheese blend wasn’t evenly distributed and, by coincidence, we started at the bland half.

Either way, this was a pizza that’s flavor came upon us in a subtle fashion. After we’d eaten, my wife remarked that the first slice she ate had little or no flavor but that the subsequent pieces were batter, confirming my impression.

All-in-all I’d have to give them a slightly higher than neutral rating, but I’d certainly like to go back later in the evening and try a pizza after the ovens have been cooking a few hours.

La Grande Orange
4410 N 40th Street
Phoenix, AZ 85018

Cost: 14” Pizza, (Sausage & Pepperoni*) $14. ($0.09 per square inch)

*For an apples to apple comparison, the price of a standard pepperoni pizza is also $14, so the cost per square inch remains the same.

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California Pizza Kitchen

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I could spend a lot of time making fun of the menu at California Pizza Kitchen. I have long maintained (and continue to stand by) my opinion that it was created to serve pizza to people who don’t really like pizza.

Or, perhaps most of the menu is just pretentious crap?

However, I’m not going to do that today, because, if you get past all the Thai noodles, gorgonzola, pears and lightly shaved kiwi skins, they can make a credible pizza, although few and far between on their menu.

I don’t go there often because it’s too busy and too pretentious, but we were in the neighborhood and I knew I hadn’t properly reviewed their “standard” pepperoni pizza.

So with that plan in my mind, I was promptly seduced into trying a new “specialty” pizza – the Pepperoni Pomodoro. The Pepperoni Pomodoro pizza is a neopolitan pizza described as, “Our Italian Pomodoro sauce with pepperoni, Mozzarella, Parmesan and fresh Mozzarella cheeses. Topped with fresh herbs.”

At first I resisted, mostly because I honestly didn’t know what a pomodoro sauce was and I was afraid it might be made with asparagus, pears and avocados, but when I ordered a “normal” pepperoni pizza, the waiter suggested the pomodoro and it gave me the opportunity to ask what it was. Answer: a slightly chunky tomato sauce. It was a $1 more, but I decided to go for it.

Irene, on the other hand, avoided pizza and had a dish of Thai Curry Noodles, which she really thought was good. She skipped pizza because they no longer serve the Peking Duck Pizza (I wish I were, but I’m not joking) and that’s what she was looking forward to.

On to the pizza. The Pepperoni Pomodoro pizza has a nice, thin crust, followed by a layer of “chunky” pomodoro sauce, followed by a lot of cheese, pepperoni and finally some greenish sprinkles.

The problems started right away. The thin crust was charred on the outer edge, so much so that carbonized crust kept coming off on my hands, leaving black marks that eventually ended up on my clothes, face and arms. Despite that, the crust was raw – an impressive accomplishment, but not of the good kind.

The pomodoro sauce was nothing special and the fresh cheeses were… well, have you ever eaten mozzarella cheese right out of the package? It has a completely different flavor from cooked mozzarella – or, actually, it hasn’t much flavor at all. Much of the cheese on my pizza had the “raw” mozzarella flavor. The pepperoni was OK and the green sprinkles were just some ordinary Italian spices.

All in all, I wasn’t happy with the pizza.

While we were still eating, the manager cam over to a nearby table and apologized to them – their Pepperoni Pomodoro had been burned in the oven and they were cooking a new one. Sounds like they haven’t gotten the hang of making these just yet.

In any case, until I get back and have a “normal” pepperoni pizza, I’m going to reserve final judgement on California Pizza Kitchen.

Pepperoni Pomodoro, 11″, $10.99 or $0.12 (0.116) per square inch.

California Pizza Kitchen
Biltmore Fashion Park
2400 E. Camelback Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85016
Phone: (602) 553-8382

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The Truth Sometimes Sets You Free

BBC NEWS => Eating pizza ‘cuts cancer risk’

I hate eating tomatoes.

For years people have nagged me, “oh, you need to eat more tomatoes, they reduce the risk of cancer.”

To which I always respond, “I eat pizza, that’s a tomato food.”

“Oh no”, they say, “That’s not the same.”

Turns out, it is.

Pizzas are covered with a potentially protective tomato sauce. Italian researchers say eating pizza could protect against cancer. Researchers claim eating pizza regularly reduced the risk of developing oesophageal cancer by 59%. The risk of developing colon cancer also fell by 26% and mouth cancer by 34%, they claimed.

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Crazy Jim’s Pizza

Crazy Jim’s has been just around the corner from my house for years, and I must admit, I don’t go there very often. Not because I don’t enjoy it, but just because it’s small, crowded and a little on the expensive side.

The picture here was taken in August when we made our first “review” visit, but I was not feeling well that evening and came down sick the next day. I felt it probably had impacted my enjoyment of my pizza and so decided not to review at that time.

Last week we tried again with more success.

Crazy Jim’s is always busy and they should be, they make a good pizza.

One thing I really like about Crazy Jim’s is that, for dine-in customers, they’ll only make a 9″ pizza. I don’t know why they do that, but I’d like to think they’re standing on principal: “Smaller pizzas are always better and if you’re dining in we’re going to serve you the best pizza we can. If you’re traking a pizza to go, you probably don’t care about quality anyway, so let them eat big pies.”

I’d like to think that’s it, anyway. In the absence of testimony to the contrary, I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt.

There’s nothing I’d classify as outstanding about their pizza, except that it’s consistently well-prepared and cooked. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it, but it is a little on the expensive side.

They also serve greek food which is pretty good, too.

9″ Pepperoni, $8.75 or $0.14in2 (0.138)

Conclusion: recommended

Crazy Jim’s Restaurant
4041 N 15th Ave
Phoenix, AZ



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Luna Pizza


Far out at the crossroads of I-17 and the 101 Loop situated in one of those shopping centers built around a mega-theatre complex, is Luna Pizza.

It’s a pleasant little place inside and had quite a few people late on a Sunday night. It’s in a poor location in the shopping center, and everything near it was closed.

One person appeared to be using his laptop with available wireless internet, but I suspect it was coming through from the Wildflower Bread Company next door.

I try to approach every pizza restaurant with an open mind, but the pizza on the other patrons’ tables didn’t look too promising.

When our pizza arrived, I was still under-whelmed by its appearance. The crust just looked flat and lifeless.

The pizza spilled cheese and sauce everywhere as we pulled the first pieces and so I took a fork and grabbed a bite of cheese and sauce only. I couldn’t quite place my finger on it, but I didn’t like the sauce, it was a bit too much like a jar of spaghetti sauce. The cheese was overpowered by the sauce.

There was also a loose piece of pepperoni, so I tried that before having a bite of pizza proper. The pepperoni was bitter.

Once I’d gone this far into trying the pieces separately, I decided to take a bite of the end of the crust. As it looked, so it was – lifeless and flat.

And so, having determined that I didn’t really like any part of the pizza, I started to eat.

I’ve always said that pizza is more than the sum of its parts, and Luna Pizza proves that. Perhaps it’s the missing link between just ingredients and pizza, because it was a lot better as a whole.

It still wasn’t great, and I wouldn’t recommend it, but it was better than I was expecting.

Their prices already have tax built in, so to equalize their prices versus my other reviews, I’ve applied the following formula X*108.1%=$10.50 or X=$9.71

At that price, it works out to $0.06 (0.063) per in2

Luna Pizza
27th Ave & Beadsley
Deer Valley Town Square

Conclusion: Not recommended


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Mail Order Pizza??

While researching that previous answer, I chanced upon this little gem:

Giordano’s sells mail order pizza – presumably for those lost Chicago souls desperate for their favorite taste of home. Despite the fact that they won’t ship a meat pizza, I’m really tempted to try this.

It can’t be any good, it’s impossible to reheat a pizza and achieve the flavor and subtlety of the original… but still, just to say I did… I might.

Stay Tuned

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Chicago Pizza?

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I got this question on my flickr page:

Gridman, I’ll be going to Chicago in a few weeks. Any recommendations for “best” pizza in town?

My reply:

Sadly, I’ve not had the opportunity to rate pizza in Chicago. I passed through there once when I was a few months old, but have managed to miss it since then.

I’ve been told by a couple old-time Chicago residents that Pizzeria Uno and it’s sister Pizzeria Due are some of the best local pizza. Pizzeria Uno opened a branch here in AZ, but I’m told it just isn’t the same as the original.

Other ones that I’ve heard of are Aurelio’s and Giordano’s.

Those would probably be the three I’d start with if I ever hit town. I believe they are all Chicago style.

Of those, I’d probably try Giordano’s first, based on what I’ve heard (which isn’t much.)

Anyone in Chicago like to make a recommendation?

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T.C. Luigi’s Pizza

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04-11-06_2021

I must say, I have a certain trepidation about eating in a pizza restaurant whose logo appears to be the forgotten Mario brother.

Sometimes pizza is a cruel mistress and last night I found myself eating at T.C. Luigi’s Pizza under the watchful eye of Luigi himself (see picture).

To further add to my discomfort, the place was virtually empty. One couple were ordering a couple slices when we arrived (7:30, Tuesday evening) and no one else came after us and there was only one phone in order during that time. We left at nearly 8:30.

The staff were friendly, efficient and helpful. They were particularly helpful by saving us money and getting us more pizza by telling us about their Tuesday $1 pizza special. It wasn’t written anywhere I could see and they could have just let us order our higher-priced order but they didn’t and I appreciate that.

Last night I was feeding the A and B furniture moving teams with pizza (The A team lifts and fetches, the B team provides transportation and baby-sitting services) so I needed to buy more than just a small review pizza.

Luigi’s smallest pizza is a 12″ (113.1in) and costs $8.99 (w/pepperoni) or $0.08 (0.079)/in2.
Their next sized pizza is 16″ (201.1in2) costs $11.49 or $0.06 (0.057)/in2
With their $1 pizza deal, you get a second pizza for $1, so we had 2 12″ pizzas (226.2 in2) for just $9.99. That works out to a very economical $0.04 (0.044)/in2! That’s a price point you rarely see in anything less than the really big pizzas, which are never fully cooked, making this a great deal.

Economics aside, the pizza itself was lackluster. The cheese was just a little too bitter, the sauce a little too sweet. Instead of canceling each out, they seemed to accentuate each other in an unflattering way. The pepperoni was… come to think of it, I never noticed the taste of the pepperoni.

The crust would have been passable, but nothing outstanding, but it was undercooked. One pizza was a bit more underdone than the other, leading me to believe the more cooked pizza was the one that came out of the oven last. What difference another minute in the oven might have made, I cannot say.

Despite all that, we consumed the pizza and the consensus was, “eh, it wasn’t too bad.”

While no culinary pizza triumph, I’m going to rate this pizza just barely on the “recommend” side, but specifically for Tuesdays when you get a lot more pizza for your money. If you’re looking for cheap pizza, this pizza beats the pants off discount chains like Peter Piper.

Recommended (on Tuesdays)

T.C. Luigi’s Pizza
1805 E. Elliot Rd. #109
Tempe, AZ
(It’s a chain, there are others)

Price (Normal Conditions) 12″ pepperoni, $8.99, $0.08 (0.079)/in2
Price (Tuesday) 2 12″ pepperoni, $9.99, $0.04 (0.044)/in2

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