Category: Reviews

  • Pizza City


    This is two weeks in a row that I’ve eaten in a residential house converted into a pizza place. (The other review has been delayed due to a fact-checking issue and will be posted after this one.)

    Pizza City is a weird little place which is only open 5 days a week: Sun, Tue, Thr, Fri & Sat) and then only for dinner. They’re also open for lunch from Thursday to Saturday.

    Remember to consult your Magic 8 Ball to decide if they’re going to be open when you’re hungry for pizza.

    As always, when I go into these quirky little places, I’m expecting something really special. Chains and upscale fru-fru places rarely have good pizza. It’s the little mom and pop shops where I expect to find the next great pizza.

    This pizza was an extremely near miss. As I was eating it, I felt like I might really like this pizza but for one problem: the entire flavor was overwhelmed by the taste of garlic powder. (Not fresh garlic – the dry stuff.)

    Towards the center, I think I could taste the cheese some, and it wasn’t bad, but everything else was drowned out by the garlic powder.

    When you reached the outer crust, it was exactly like eating a bread stick with garlic powder stuck to it – not a garlic bread stick where the garlic had been melded into the flavor, but just bread with garlic powder poured on it.

    Service was a little slow, but the owner/manager/pizza maker was very friendly but quite busy. Apart from a delivery person he seemed to be the only one working.

    I’m going to give them a second visit in the near future because it’s possible that they just spilled too much garlic powder on the pizza. (Although, my party had two other pizzas and they all reported the exact same thing.) Besides, I need a better picture of the pizza. Apparently the garlic altered the focal properties of the air in the localized vacinity of the pizza. (Or it might be bad photography.)

    Pizza City
    4447 N 7th Ave
    Phoenix, AZ

    602.604.2489

    Cost:10″ Pepperoni, $4.36 or $0.06 per square inch
    (Note: this is one of the cheapest pizzas per square inch I’ve reviewed. It only achieved $0.06 by rounding, the actual cost was $0.055)

    Conclusion: The jury is still out, but if you really like garlic (powder) this might be the pizza for you.

    Stay tuned for a follow-up.


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  • Da Chicago Dogs & Subs


    Da Chicago Dogs & Subs is a brand-new restaurant. Last week I drove by and noticed the “cooming soon” sign and today they were open, so it seemed a fortuitous time to try a hot dog.

    The menu is simple and straightforward. They have six kinds of dog, all featuring Vienna Beef products and a selection of 12 hot and cold subs.

    I had the Da Jumbo Dog. Da Chicago grills their dogs and, although I prefer my dogs boiled, it was a good. Vienna Beef products tend to be follproof. All their dogs are served with with fries or coleslaw (or perhaps I should say Da Fries or Da Coleslaw?) The fries were a bit undercooked.

    I think Da Chicago warrants a return, it was pretty clear that they hadn’t really gotten settled in and they had a few workflow issues with the ordering and food assembly process.

    If you’re in the area, give them a try.

    Da Chicago Dogs & Subs
    3923 E. Thomas Rd, Suite B-2
    Phoenix, AZ

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  • DiVito’s Italian Foods


    DiVito’s has been serving up food since 1973 and in some weird quirk of fate and circumstance, despite eating there since 1993, I’ve never eaten a pizza in their restaurant. (I’ve had a few take-out ones, but that doesn’t qualify for a review pizza.)

    When I eat at DiVitio’s it’s for lunch, and their “homemade” Sausage or Meatball Sicilian Sandwiches are wonderful. Made from the same materials they make their pizza, these compact, calzone-like meals are their specialty.

    During the week, they’ve also got a series of daily lunch specials (Monday’s, an antipasto salad, is pictured here) that are very reasonably priced.

    One of these days I’ll get around to reviewing their pizza.

    Recommended.

    DiVito’s Italian Foods & Catering
    5134 E. Thomas Rd.
    Phoenix, AZ



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  • Phoenix House of Pizza


    I so needed this pizza! It couldn’t have come at a better time.

    The last few pizzas I’ve had have been disappointing at best and so, almost in despair, I tried the Phoenix House of Pizza.

    Irene and Michelle had just eaten at the Chinese festival. I scrupulously avoid eating at the festival and so by the time we left, I was starving. From my list of pizza places to try, I knew that Phoenix House of Pizza wasn’t far away and I really needed a good pizza. I only hoped they could deliver.

    Phoenix House of Pizza sits just north of Van Buren on 48th Street, behind a Circle K in a rundown, tiny old-style strip mall. It’s a curious little place that immediately says, “Latino” instead of “Italian” when you walk in the door.

    The menu says they’ve been in business since 1992. My first reaction is that it’s in a poor location, but while eating I could see the tanks of the Motorola plant just a couple blocks away and I knew they had plenty of custom in the area.

    To dispense with the mystery: This pizza was a good, solid entry in the New York-style pizza category. I completely enjoyed it.

    That’s not to say everything was perfect. The smallest pizza they serve is 14″ which is, in my opinion, too large to cook properly. (That’s why I always try to review the smallest pizza available.) It’s also too large for me to eat by myself.

    Since pizza-by-the-slice is invariably just re-heated pizza, that’s never good enough for review purposes. When I’m forced to review larger pizzas, I try to take the inherent structural difficulties into account.

    Toppings: Good, good cheese, sauce and pepperoni.
    Crust: Tasty, browned across the bottom, well-cooked at the edges, floppy in the middle.

    As stated, it’s a good solid entry, and I’d recommend it to anyone in the area.

    Cost: 14″ pepperoni, $10.34, cost per square inch: $0.07 (0.067)

    Recommended

    Phoenix House of Pizza
    326 N 48 St.
    Phoenix, AZ

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  • Johnnie’s Chicago Red Hots


    What can you say about a restaurant that you’ve been going to for 18 years?

    In that time I’ve had 3 employers, 4 residences, gotten married, had 2 children and not one single thing has changed at Johnnie’s in that time except maybe some of the pictures on the wall and the business cards on the board. They’re still my favorite hot dogs in town.

    Featuring Vienna Beef products, Johnnie’s has been serving for around 20 years and has earned at least one of those “Best of…” awards given out by one of those newspapers.

    Sure, when you serve Vienna Beef, there’s not much difference in your product than every other Vienna Beef vendor. What sets Johnnie’s apart are their fresh, handmade french fries, served with every dog.

    A basic dog (w/mustard, relish, onion, kosher dil pickle, sport peppers, celery salt and tomato) starts at $3.39 and range up to the Garbage Dog (A jumbo w/chili, cheese, slaw and kraut, plus any or all of the aforementioned toppings) for $4.69. A limited number of Italian sandwiches are also available. Don’t go to Johnnie’s if you’re after a salad.

    If you like good hot dogs and handmade fries, give them a try.

    Johnnie’s Chicago Red Hots
    53 West Thomas Ave
    Phoenix, AZ
    (602) 241-0113
    Open weekdays, 10AM – 4PM


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  • It’s Not Pizza, It’s DiGiorno’s

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    On general principle I don’t review frozen pizza, they’re all bad, but that doesn’t stop me from eating them occasionally. The worst pizza is still better than the best cauliflower dish and they’re so darned convenient.

    One thing that does fascinate me about frozen pizza, and indeed about any frozen food, is the money and research that goes into the technology to improve the product. Pizza, in particular, has always been problematic. Frozen bread is tricky to begin with, but add a layer of topping and the problem is multiplied.

    I tried DiGiorno’s rising crust pizza when it first came out, and really wasn’t impressed. (I never had another.) But curiosity got the best of me the other day when I saw DiGiorno’s new microwave rising crust. (Cooking a frozen pizza in an oven is hard enough, a microwave adds yet another obstacle.)

    Late last night, I tried the first of four that I bought on sale.

    As you can see from the pictures, they’ve developed an upper ring that sits over the crust, presumably this helps crisp the crust, although my initial thought was that it might prevent it from drying out.

    Normally my microwave cooks things faster rather than longer than the recommended cook time, however, I programmed it to cook the longest length of recommended time.

    The result: The center of the pizza was still refrigerator cold, the outer crust was somewhat blackened and had the taste and consistency of dried-out Play-Doh.

    It’s going to be tough getting through all four pizzas.

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  • iWeb – Bad Apple?

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    I use iPhoto on a daily basis, but there’s been a continually annoying bug that has prevented me from doing some important things. Specifically, when you burn a photo album to CD or DVD, the keywords used for tagging get scrambled.

    For example, if I have a picture of Michelle at a zoo here in Arizona, it might have the keywords “Family”, “Arizona”, “Zoo”, “Animal”. I use these to post the photos to my flickr account, and as a way to sift through the photos in iPhoto quickly.

    Once the albums are burned to CD or DVD, the keywords get mixed with other keywords not associated with my pictures, for example thee above photo might become “Costco”, “Pizza”, “Taiwan”, “Urinal”. (Yes, I do have a tag for Urinals as I occasionally contribute photos to the website urinal.net.)

    The practical inconvenience of this bug is that I have not been able to merge the photos that I took in Taiwan (Sept ’05- Nov ’05) and afterwards from my iBook onto my Powermac where all my older photos are located. This is getting to be a problem because my iBook has limited space and my new Canon 350D takes really big pictures.

    With the release of iLife ’06 (and contained within a new version of iPhoto) I hoped that the problem was fixed, so I went against my instincts honed from years of programming experience and bought iLife ’06 before they released the first set of bug fixes.

    As it turns out, it appears that the iPhoto bug is fixed, but I need more testing before I’m positive that a merge will work correctly, but the first hurdle is out of the way. (In a way, I’ll miss the fact that I’ve got all those photos readily available to show off on my laptop, but I need that space back – perhaps I’ll shrink the photos on the iBook to a smaller resolution just so I can keep them handy.)

    Over the next few days, I’ll review the individual programs in iLife ’06 from my perspective, but I want to turn to iWeb first.

    Much of the “theme” of the iLife ’06 enhancements over iLife ’05 have to do with blogging, pod-casting, etc. To that end, they’ve added iWeb, a web-page management program, which integrates with the other programs and the .Mac service to make an easy-to-use tool for posting stuff to the ‘net.

    Like iDVD, their slick and easy DVD authoring tool, Apple supplies iWeb with professionally-designed templates, which you’re stuck with. Nowadays that’s not so bad as many, many people are keeping pages that have rigid formats and it is a tedious chore keeping a page with a unified look-and-feel.

    In a very short space of time, I put together a simple family web-page. My idea was for a “news” page where both Irene and I could post entries.

    Bzzzzzzt! Wrong answer!

    There’s apparently no (built-in) way for two people to maintain the same page from two different computers. A search of the net shows this isn’t just my imagination, although I did find this nifty tip on macosxhints.com.

    The tip shows how to take the file containing all the site information from one computer and moving it to a USB key and tricking the OS into redirecting the file to the key. Clever, but way too much hassle.

    So I thought, why not try to redirect the file to my iDisk (shared disk space provided by the .Mac service, more on that later) and trick the system that way? Here’s why not: The web site it created is 9.1mb, but the file that stores the info on my computer is 23mb. As I’ve only got a trial .Mac membership, I’ve only 11mb left available.

    Multiple computers updating an iWeb site is a critical enhancement that needs to be addressed immediately.

    The other “problem” with iWeb (and indeed many of the publishing enhancements to the other iLife ’06 products) is the tight integration (to the near exclusion of anything else) with the .Mac service.

    The .Mac service has been around for sometime. Once upon a time, before I ever bought a Mac, it was free. It provides you with some typical services, such as e-Mail accounts and online disk storage and some unique Mac-only services, such as the iDisk, which appears as a drive on your Mac, but actually resides at .Mac, giving you easy access to your files when away from your computer or on your laptop and the synchronization services, which are really nice if you have multiple computers. The synchronization services allow you to keep all your bookmarks, address book entries, calendar entries, passwords, e-mail accounts and settings the same on all your Macs.

    This is great if you’re out in the field and you add someone to your address book or you mark a new bookmark and when you get home it’s all updated onto your home computer. It’s a cool idea and it works well, but I’d never pay $99 a year just for that.

    Now, along comes iLife ’06. Want to do easy pod-casting? Garageband can do it – right to your .Mac account. Video-casting? iMovie and .Mac. Web-pages? iWeb and .Mac. Photo-casting? iPhoto and .Mac. See the pattern?

    I’ll get into photo-casting when I review the new iPhoto, but in a nutshell, Photo-casting allows the publishing of photos directly into the iPhoto of others. Something really cool if you’ve got grandparents living on the other side of the planet who happen to have a Mac. In any case, this new feature is compelling enough that I’m trying the 60 day trial membership to .Mac

    Despite earlier rumors, iWeb doesn’t require that you use .Mac. You can generate web pages, export them to your disk drive and then post that to another web server, but several features (such as nifty slideshows) are disabled. (If you want to see a slideshow, look here and select the “Start Slideshow” button near the top.

    iWeb certainly could bring a whole new wave of the unwashed masses to the World Wide Web but in my book, the jury is still out. (Who am I kidding, the unwashed masses can’t afford Macs, but now that Intel-based Macs are out, I do know some people at Intel who’ll need to buy Macs soon.)

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  • Western Pizza Express


    Western Pizza (or perhaps Western Pizza Express is a Canadian chain with one location in Phoenix.

    Looking at their website, they operate two types of locations: take out and delivery only (Western Pizza Express) and facilities that include dine-in also (Western Pizza). If that’s the case, the Phoenix location is a Western Pizza, although their menu says, “Express”. Your guess is as good as mine.

    This pizza has more of a bready crust, but it wasn’t bad, and was properly cooked throughout – a welcome change after the last few pizzas I’ve had at other places.

    The pizza was loaded with good-tasting pepperoni, a full layer under the cheese and then small slices on top of the cheese.

    The cheese was good too.

    All-in-all it was a good, serviceable pizza, my only complaint was their “…’family secret’ recipe for our incredible tomato sauce…” as they put it.

    There was another person eating pizza with me, and without consulting each other we came to exact same conclusion: It’s barbecue sauce, not pizza sauce.

    If you like a really sweet pizza, this might be for you, but it was a bit too much for me. Although, to my surprise, it wasn’t as awful as it sounds.

    It was a nice place and I might eat there again, although I’d be inclined to try something else on their menu. They have a variety of subs, salads, wings, appetizers and desserts.

    Conclusion: Not for everyone, but worth a try, maybe, I suppose, or not.

    Price: 8″ Pepperoni, $7.50
    Price per square inch: $0.15 (0.149)

    Western Pizza
    Western Pizza Express
    4801 E. Indian School Road
    Phoenix, AZ


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  • Pino’s Pizza Al Centro


    Pizza is subjective. I’ll be the first to admit that.

    One person’s ultimate pizza is another man’s greasy cardboard. Some days when I’m eating a review pizza, I think, “no one could like this”.

    Other days I think, “this isn’t my cup of tea, but I could see how someone else could love it.” And so it was while I was eating at Pino’s Pizza Al Centro.

    Right off the bat, I’m not inclined to return, but I’ll try to be as detailed as I can in this review to let you decide as you see fit.

    I generally see pizza lovers falling into two major camps: Foundationers and Topping Heads. I’m a Foundationer.

    A Foundationer is not a crackpot religion, but a pizza philosophical position. In short, a crust failure is a total pizza failure.

    (While it isn’t a crackpot religion, if anyone would like it to be one, just send me money and I think something can be arranged. Similarly, we are looking for someone to write a wikipedia article on this philosophical movement.)

    Meanwhile, Topping Heads think everything above the sauce is the key to a masterful pizza. They’re just plain wrong, but I have to say that to keep my membership up in the Foundationers.

    Keep all that in mind as we move along in this review.

    Pino’s has been just off Central on Thomas for I don’t know how long. I’ve been passing it on my way home for as long as I can remember although I won’t go so far as to say It’s been there for the full 12 years I’ve been driving home that way.

    It’s never open when I pass it. For the longest time, I thought it was out of business. In fact, it’s only open weekdays between 10 AM and 2 PM and again from 5 PM to 8 PM and I’m almost never driving that way during those times.

    Today I made the effort to get there during lunch hour. I was expecting them to only have a couple small tables (looking through the front window gives the impression of a cramped space and no dining area), but actually they have a good-sized dining room with 20 or more tables.

    Even though I ate an early lunch, it was quite busy.

    They have several pizzas in a serving area for pizza by-the-slice, although I did notice that the crowds seemed more inclined towards have pastas and sandwiches rather than pizza.

    My pizza was a 10″ (their smallest) pepperoni. It looked really good when served up but it did not, for me, live up to the promise of its appearance.

    Starting from the top:

    • I disliked the pepperoni. Pepperoni generally falls in one of three categories,

      • flavorless – self explanatory
      • smoky – some pepperonis have an almost summer-sausage, smoky, country, bitter flavor. More like something I’d expect from Knickerson Farms than an Italian Deli
      • pepperoni-flavored. I can’t describe this one, but this is the flavorful, not smoky flavor that makes a pepperoni that I can just eat cut right off the stick.

      Unfortunately, this was the bitterest, most smoky flavored pepperoni I’d tasted in a long time. That, in itself, is not a show-stopper, there’s always Italian sausage as a fallback.

    • Cheese. The cheese was good, but there was loads too much on the pizza. It was awash in melted cheese. They certainly did not skimp on cheese (or pepperoni, for that matter). Too much cheese creates a different problem, which we’ll get to in a bit.
    • Sauce. Good. Tasty. No complaints.
    • Crust. Oh, this is really where the problem lies. The outer edge was cooked but had little flavor (unless you like the flavor of flour). There was one crunchy spot which tasted very similar to those dried Italian breadsticks they used to serve in a restaurants before they discovered people liked fresh ones.

      The inside portion of the crust was raw. “Raw” in this case meaning “wet dough”. This is exactly what happens when you put too much cheese (or other toppings) on pizza. The bottom browns up nice, but the top of the crust remains uncooked.

      I took a picture of it for demonstration purposes, but my cell phone camera has no macro and the picture was not clear enough to post. I was able to measure it though. There was a thin layer of cooked crust on the bottom and 3 times as much uncooked dough sitting on top of that. If you figure that the cooked crust will have risen, that’s really a lot more 75% uncooked.

    As a Foundationist, the uncooked crust is inexcusable, and yet I know many people who wouldn’t think twice about eating a pizza with double or triple cheese on it.

    If that’s you, then this pizza might be for you, but if a well-prepared crust reigns supreme in your book, give this one a miss.

    10″ Pepperoni Pizza, $6.95 = $0.09 (0.088) per square inch

    Conclusion: Topping Heads Only (But you might really like this one.)

    Pino’s Pizza Al Centro
    139 W Thomas
    Phoenix, AZ


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  • Olympic Gyros


    There’s a little hole-in-the-wall gyros place on 24th street that I often pass at lunchtime on my way to the Apple Store.

    Every-time I pass it I think, “I should have gone there for lunch” but the parking is almost non-existent and by then I’m committed to another course of action.

    Yesterday, though, I was in the right place at the right time and finally stopped in.

    Just as the sign says, their menu is mostly just gyros and sides, which is fine by me, The lunch special was souvlaki, fries and a drink for $6.50.

    I’ll need more visits to determine the overall quality of the food, but the souvlaki (grilled pork) was very good, and I really liked the sauce on the gyro. It had a strong, fresh flavor (heavy on cucumber) which added a lot to the dish.

    The restaurant only has about 6 tables and apparently even less parking.

    If you’re in the area, give them a try.

    Olympic Gyros
    3405 N 24th Street
    Phoenix, AZ 85016


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