Category: Taiwan2005

Another bad night.

I just rested in the morning, until shortly before noon when we went to Costco for provisions. My father-in-law drove and I think he gave Irene grey hairs. There’s something about that trip to Costco that really seems to bring out the scarey driving in him. I remember that from last trip too.

I can’t blame it all on him, the system on on and off ramps for the double decker freeways are not very logical. As best I can tell, there are three distinct roads under each freeway. One on either side of the support pillars, sometimes those are two-way roads, and then another road in between the support pillars. The in-between road can be one of two direction traffic and also serves as the on-ramps to the first level freeway. I never did figure out how to get to the second level freeway.

Sometimes the inner lane is travelling against you and you need to get on one side or the other and drive along the freeway a ways before the middle lane becomes two way and then weave in. None of it seems to be marked and the cars just sort of improvise as they try to figure out which lane they need to be in.

I’m quite sure we travelled double the distance needed to arrive at Costco.

Costco Taiwan doesn’t have kosher all-beef hot dogs anymore, instead they have all-pork hot dogs, which still tasted pretty good for lunch.

We took Michelle to her next class in the afternoon. This class was ballet. She was really looking forward to going, but when we arrived, she wanted to spend her time playing in the general play room.

After they gave her ballet dress to put on she tried for a little while, but whenever we’d turn our backs, she’d leave class and head for the playroom. She won’t be attending any more of the ballet classes; hopefully this won’t be a trend for the other classes, too.

For dinner we met up with Irene’s friends Nora and Judy. Judy just got married last week, and she had already seen Irene on this trip, but they were more interested in seeing the kids. We met up at Romano’s Macaroni Grill, which I particularly like and had a good dinner. Michelle got tired and so I took her home early, leaving the women and James out for a while longer.

Sometime during the night, delirious with fever, I got up to use the restroom.

Funny thing about the restrooms here, there’s no differentiation between the shower and the rest of the restroom, consequently, since the Taiwanese tend to shower at night, all night long the bathroom floor is soaking wet and the air is thick and humid.

As I was sitting there I met Geoffrey. Geoffrey is the cockroach who was enjoying the nice climate and decided to make an attempt to run across my foot. He didn’t succeed, but I was too feeble to kill him.

I named him Geoffrey because I had to call him something while I was negotiating with him. You see, I wanted him to agree to my terms: He was welcome to this half of the house, just leave the bedroom in the back alone. (We’re in the back room and essentially sleeping on the floor, so I wasn’t too crazy about the idea of him crawling over us in our sleep.)

I was pretty sure I had convinced him when I left the restroom, only to be confronted with an army of them on the floor. 20 to 30 of them arranged between be and the bedroom.

Eventually I realized that the natural marble floor has a series of dark imperfections I’d never noticed before and in the dark and in a fever they came to life. (Geoffrey in the bathroom was real though.)

In the morning, I was too sick to go out and get breakfast, but we finally got out about 9:30. Irene had signed Michelle up for an art class and we had to get her there by 10.

The class instruction was in Chinese, and we’re not too sure she understood or was understood, but she played well with the others and had a lot of fun, so we signed her up for 12 more classes while we’re here.

In the evening, we first went out to eat at MOS Burger. We took the kids and we all ate there. Irene chastised me because we spent 300 Taiwanese dollars for dinner! However, when you figure that’s $US 9, it didn’t seem that bad to me. Still, prices for food in Taiwan (especially Chinese food) tend to be cheap, so I suppose it was a bit of an expensive meal. (Incidentally, we had two burgers (one of which was seafood), fried chicken, chicken nuggets, fries and drinks.)

One thing that was rather annoying about MOS: We were there for 53 minutes, during that time the in-store music system played “Theme from a Summer Place” continuously. It’s not a bad little tune, but 53 minutes?! You’d think the employees would go mad.

After dinner we left the kids with grandma and grandpa and headed out to the computer shops and the night market. By this time, my cold had come back full force – it’s strange how much worse it is after dark. During the day it rarely bothers me.

We cut the excursion short because I just kept getting worse and worse, but we didn’t leave before I had some very good food. It was “Indian” food adapted for the night markets. I’m not going to describe it in detail because, with just a little work, I’m convinced it might have commercial viability back in the states. More on that when I’m rich.

I got up at 5:00 AM this morning, still a bit early for being on vacation, but better than 4:00AM. Considering the weather, 5:00 AM is quite pleasant. Sunrise this morning was at 5:42, so I decided to go shoot pictures at 5:30. At 5:29 Michelle came into the room, turing on every light in the house. When she reached where I was she looked at me with sleepy eyes and asked me just one thing, “Dad, can you turn the lights off?”

I bribed her to go back to bed with a cookie and got on my way. My goal, test my endurance in moderate weather and try to shoot some panoramic pictures. (Since I don’t have a panoramic camera, I have to shoot several shots contiguously, then stitch them together in Photoshop. I was reasonabily successful with the pictures (See photos on flickr) and managed to walk for about 2 hours, covering some areas I’ve never been before. I found a Burger King in the area, another restaurant Michelle might eat at.

I was quite pleased at the distance I walked. Considering how bad my back has been lately, I simply haven’t been able to walk like I used to. Perhaps if I can just keep it up, I’ll get it back into shape. I haven’t had any arm numbing since I’ve arrived, so either it is lack of stress, or sleeping on a mattress with a hardness just this side of diamond.

After my walk I found myself near the Cong You Bing seller so, as it was early and there was no crowd, I decided to give it a shot. Everything worked well except that I forgot I have no voice still. It makes it considerably harder to express yourself in a foreign language when you can’t make yourself be heard.

Midday we packed up and headed to Hsinchu to visits Irene’s grandparent’s new grave. Irene’s grandmother recently passed away, which is sad as she was really looking forward to seeing James for the first time.

Apparently, her grandfather was buried in a traditional tomb (I saw that once before on a Tomb Sweeping Day excursion) but now that both have gone, he’s been dug up, they’ve been cremated and re-located to a new location.

On the way to Hsinchu, I kept myself busy by typing this entry and observing the countryside. Since I brought my computer along I was able to verify something that I suspected on the drive into Taipei upon our arrival – some of the tour busses have wireless internet access. I haven’t been able to lock onto one long enough to get out to the net, but the signal is there. It is an intriguing possibility that if we could just get behind one of those buses and pace it for long enough, I could be online. Not that I have any practical use for that, but it would be a novelty.

As one leaves Taipei, you really get the feeling of how alien the landscape can be. Taipei is in a valley and like all of the mountains on Taiwan, the hills are steep. It looks like it would be fun to get into the green wilderness, but as you get close you can see how impossible that is. If the land hasn’t been hacked up and paved, it’s totally useless. 60 and 70 degree inclines are common.

Despite that, signs of man are everywhere. One one hilltop, hi-rise apartments, on the next, hundreds of tombs stare back at them. It’s surreal.

Hsinchu lies in the flat, eastern costal plane to the south of Taipei. Once out of the Taipei area the drive is dull and featureless.

We stopped briefly in Jhudong, which in terms of aesthetics demonstrates that it takes true artisans to turn concrete and sheet metal into a town that ugly. It’s not so much that there was anything you don’t see elsewhere in Taiwan, but the streets we travelled were relentless in their ugliness and clutter.

When we arrived at Mr. Huang’s sisters’ house, there was a solemn moment as joss sticks were lit in honor of their mother and father. One was given to each of us, including myself and Michelle. Michelle promptly touched the burning end, setting off a 20 minutes crying fit not only for herself but for James who decided to cry along. Thus ended the solemn moment.

The neighbor came over and brought her two boys over to play with Michelle. It is from them that we borrowed the crib that James is sleeping in so we brought gifts for them. There was a terribly complicated moment were the children needed to exchange ages so that they could properly address each other. The oldest boy was “gege” to Michelle because he was older, the other boy was “didi” because he was younger. In turn, Michelle was “meimei” and “jiejie” for younger and older sister, accordingly. Baby James was “didi” to them all.

Apparently my cold and 80% humidity was making me look like I was wilting, so finally they made me take a nap in the back room.

When it came time to leave, the boys next door were in tears, they just didn’t want Michelle to leave.

We stopped by the gravesite for a time and then returned to Taipei. By the time we returned, I was feeling awful, the cold that’s been dogging my footsteps for days finally caught hold. I barely had enough energy to get out and pick up some cold medicine (we ran out of DayQuil earlier that morning) and some dinner, a nice beef noodle soup.

I postponed uploading of the day’s pictures and narrative until the next day and crashed. It was a bad night, the only cold medicine we could get was Panadol Cold, and it’s pretty rough stuff. Anyone want to overnight Fedex me some DayQuil?

Surprise! It isn’t me! It’s Michelle.

The problem is, little girls need to eat, but virtually everything her grandparents put on the table she immediately pulls a “I don’t like that!” and refuses to eat. Yesterday we decided that we’d take her to McDonald’s today, figuring that if she sees familiar food she’s inclined to eat it.

In the morning we took both kids out for a walk to the bank and the Metro station. No matter how willing, dragging a three-year old behind you is tiring walking, and the post-typhoon air was clear, hot and unbelievably humid, somewhere in the 90% range. We saw the military band practicing for “double-10” day (October, 10th, founding of the Republic of China) and Michelle fed the giant goldfish in the pond.

On the way back, we overdid it in the sun, or at least I did, and when we returned to the house we broke down and turned on the room air conditioner.

You’d think we’d have the room air conditioner on all the time, right? Wrong. It has only one setting, “Freeze the room”. With it on, the room becomes unbearably cold within an hour and then stepping outside is a torture of the opposite exteme.

Nonetheless, we turned it on, and as I lay there I didn’t realize the insidious trick of fate that was being played on me. When I awoke, teeth chattering, I turned off the AC and realized I had no voice. As I’m still fighting a cold, apparently the cold air blowing on my neck was enough to knock out my vocal cords. Even now, several hours later, I haven’t much voice.

In the early afternoon, we took the kids to McDonald’s as planned. Of course, the first McDonald’s we took them to (one which I had no recollection of ever existing) was gone, so we had to tavel out for a more distant one.


At last Michelle ate something other than rice, and she had a lot of fun playing with the Chinese kids in the play area. We could always hear Michelle because she’d speak to them in English, “I’m Michelle, I’m three-years old”, “I’m Cinderalla-Dora” and “I love you guys!”

We’re trying to get her into a part-time pre-school while we’re here so she can interact with Chinese-speaking kids. Already she’s begun to speak more Chinese. It used to be that she’d spend all day asking, “What are you doing?” which can get really annoying after an hour or so, but now she spends all day asking, “Ni zai zou shenme?” (What are you doing?)

The grandparents, and even uncle Johnny have been really good with the kids, so I had hoped to leave the kids with them this evening and Irene and I could go out somewhere. Irene informed her folks we wanted to eat out for dinner and they agreed.

They made plans for all of us to go out for dinner together.

At least we went to a steakhouse, but the two nearest steakhouses to the house are also gone! What is up with this city?!

Michelle refused to eat, again, but at least we got one full meal in her today.

They had interesting, and very ugly light fixtures at the steakhouse. They are, in fact, made of stone. I know, because I hit my head on one of them. I couldn’t believe how hard it hit me, so I reached up to steady it (and myself) and found it was actually made of rock (quartz, I think) cut and formed into a hanging fixture. Apart from a headache, it also brought realization that I haven’t hit my head on a doorframe yet. This has to be a record, 4 days into the trip and not one door concussion yet.

The typhoon has altered our plans. We were heading for Alishan tomorrow, but have postponed it for a week now. Instead, tomorrow we’ll drive to Hsinchu to visit Irene’s recently deceased grandmother.

I wonder if the name of the town is still spelled “Hsinchu”? In Taipei, they’ve made a half-assed attempt to spell things a little more closely to how it is done on the mainland, so the street we stay on is now longer “Hsinsheng” but “Xinseng” and the park across the street is no longer “Ta’an” but “Daan”.

Personally, I’m more familiar with the mainland spelling, but that’s a political football and a half around these parts. At least it is easier for me to sound out names, assuming the name has been converted to the new spelling. I guess I’ll find out tomorrow if I’m heading to Hsinchu or Xinzhu.

The typhoon is over. The central part of Taiwan took the direct hit and there is damage and injuries, but not too many.

Once the typhoon hit the central mountain range of the island (which peaks at 4000 meters) the eye collapsed and the wind got knocked out of the storm, although it is expected to strengthen again as it heads for China.

It turns out there’s not much you can do on a typhoon day except stay inside.

James took the opportunity to stand up in his crib to show off. He didn’t have much to do during the day either.

Around noon, it looks as if the worst was over, and I wanted to go forage for food. Irene’s mom; however, felt that no one should go outside for fear of sudden death, so I snuck out with the idea of calling Irene to come “help” me, thus giving her an excuse to get out of the house.

Despite the fact that there hadn’t been any rain for an hour, as soon as I stepped outside it began to drizzle. I tried to go towards the big park nearby, but once I was out of the narrow canyons formed by the buildings, the storm was brewing again.

I was about to give up when it calmed again, so I tired a different direction, figuring if I stayed on the backstreets I’d be protected from most of the storm if it came back.

I made it as far as a small park in the other direction, where quite a few people were out with the kids. While I sat there, the storm came back with a vengeance, collapsing peoples’ umbrellas right and left and ripping signs off buildings.

I was well-sheltered at a park table under heavy trees, but finally I decided I needed to head back, dry or not. The only things left on the street apart from myself were lost umbrellas being blown in the wind and two Japanese women consulting an “Eating Guide To Taipei” guidebook. I suspect they were looking for Din Tai Fung, which wasn’t far away, but they clearly couldn’t get oriented.

On my way back, getting soaked, I realized that the wind was blowing in the opposite direction. Apparently the storm was now of the outgoing side, as the storm continued for many more hours.

Around 7:00 PM it was over, the skies were clear with just a few high clouds. The air was clear and refreshing, a rarity for Taipei, so we went for a long walk with James, while grandma and grandpa took Michelle to the park to play.

It’s 3:00AM in the morning, and it’s no surprise I didn’t get much sleep. I slept a lot in the evening, as did both the kids (I’m surprised they’re not up now). About midnight, it began to get really windy and it has been on and off with the rain and wind.

I have no way to judge the wind speed, but so far, I’d say nothing more than I’ve seen back home, although occaisionally, it does sound like someone has picked up a scooter and flung it against the building.

There’s been no update on status at the typhoon watch center, so the prediction stands at 9:00 AM. Looking at the satellite images from the local weather though, looks like the eye is right over Taiwan at this moment, but collapsing. Maybe this is as bad as it will get?

It’s too dark for me to get any video. Can’t see anything outside except leaves blowing, anyway.

Afternote, 5:15 AM, Typhoon Center posted this photo of the typhoon at the time I was posting. The eye hasn’t hit the island yet, and the ETA for Taipei is currently 8:00 AM, although in the last hour the weather seems to have gotten better.

Take one part oppressive heat and humidity
one part sleeping with the windows open to the damp, polluted night air
one part stressful day with the kids (and mommy away at a wedding banquet)
mix with not eating much food and you’ve got a recipe for an illness

I did squat today except get sick.

Super Typhoon still due in tomorrow. It’s calmed a bit at 138 MPH sustained winds with 166 MPH gusts, but that still makes it a category 4 storm. Taipei was never likely to be hit by the eye, but now it has shifted a bit further south, almost dead center. That makes the storm just about cover the entire island. Taipei is still due to be hit by the storm at about 9:00 AM tomorrow morning, or about 10.5 hours from now.

I did get out briefly after dark tonight and walk around. The weather is strange – I’d guess this is the definition of the “calm before the storm.” It isn’t exactly still, but there is a stillness to it. Suspect we’re going to be stuck indoors all day tomorrow too.

Alishan railway, which is directly in the typhoon path has closed for 2 days, and may be closed longer. As we were planning to go there in 3 days time, it looks like we may have to change our plans.

Eating was the highlight of the day, and I didn’t eat much.

We took Michelle to the park and let her play on the cement slides, but then she had a hissy fit over kleenix and the whole thing devolved into 30 minutes of her crying uncontrollably. Luckily, Taipei is so noisey, I had no problem dragging her among the crowds while she continued to cry.

The incredibly convenient 7-11 right by the house that first appeared on our last trip is gone, replaced by one of the seeming millions of English language schools for small children. For the city with the highest density of convenience stores in the world, there aren’t any convenient ones for us anymore.

The English schools are incredible popular. In fact, there are two in the same building where the 7-11 was. Irene and I went out and collected some phone numbers. Even though they teach in English, it would be nice if we could put Michelle somewhere with Chinese-speaking kids even part-time while we’re here.

She certainly understands far more Chinese that Irene gave her credit for, but she won’t speak nearly as much. She often leaves grandma confused.

We picked up SIM cards for out phones, which is when I snuck in a MOS Burger – and that was the highlight of the day – so now we’ve got Taiwanese phone numbers and can stay in touch with each other without paying international rates.

In the evening, we went out for some drugstore items and passed by Gold-In Tex Fried Chicken – or I should say the shoe store that now occupies that space. Is there nothing the same?! Now all that’s left is KFC and McDonald’s for fried chicken.

Longwang is still on the way, but the track shows the winds dimishing somewhat. Jet lag is still a problem and I’m writing this on Saturday morning. Today Michelle and I woke up at 4:30 instead of 3:30. I’m not exactly looking forward to today. Irene is going to a wedding banquet, leaving both kids with me. Michelle hasn’t been eating at all. Anything her grandparents put down on the table she immediately says, “I don’t like it!” Yesterday she had 2 bowls of rice and a couple yoghurt drinks.

It’s time to take her to MacDonald’s so she’ll see familiar food and hopefully eat.

Breakfast, the usual: Cong You Bing, no surprises.

After breakfast, I had a snack I couldn’t resist, Fried Chicken Flavor Cheetos. This actually consists of completely cheeseless-flavored cheetos, (in fact, almost completely flavorless cheetos) which you sprinkle a packet of flavoring over. That packet is, I’m convinced, the exact same stuff you mix in chicken-flavored instant noodle.

At lunchtime, I managed to sneak into a MOS Burger and have a small, but tastey, cheeseburger. MOS’ burgers are a bit messy, and weird, but, I like ’em. Their fries are decent, too… if only they’d put some salt on them… or even have salt somewhere in the restaurant.

Good thing I did sneak into MOS because the family planned lunch for me, which was take-out Peking Duck and celery.

Jet lag did me in for dinner too. I had an opportunity to eat at TKK Fried Chicken, my least favorite fried chicken chain, but I wasn’t very hungry at the time, it was early and I thought I’d have other windows of opportunity to eat, but I fell asleep and when I awoke the family had prepared dinner, along with special food just for me.

“Special” food isn’t always bad, and in this case it was pork ribs. Two pork ribs cooked like pork chops. Not bad tasting, but, since I don’t clean the bones like army ants, only about 8 bites of meat. I’m so hungry.

My Taiwan diet begins

Weight at end of day: 100 kilos

Looks who’s coming for breakfast on Sunday.

Super Typhoon Longwang (I’m not making that up) currently a strong category 4 storm packing 150 MPH winds (gusting to 185 MPH) is heading straight on for Taiwan.

While I’m not too worried here on the east side of the island, we’re supposed to go into the mountains Tuesday, which, if we get a direct hit, could still be reeling. The mountains in Taiwan are prone to mudslides and the roads become impassable.

You can check the latest info here.